Saturday, 26 March 2016

Makeup for Blonde Model

Explaining my Chosen Face Chart

I wanted to give this model a beautiful glittery look. I was inspired by Creatures of The Wind's makeup, by Aaron De Mey, with the bold black graphic eye and then bold gold glitter. I really like how the smooth and rough textures contrast with each other and how the two colours are bold, making it a very powerful look. I want to make my eye liner look slightly more subtle as it is going to be included in a Mac advert, where the looks tend to be more wearable, rather than high fashion. I therefore will not cover the whole eye lid and up to the eye brow with glitter, but will instead just follow the line of the the eye liner with the gold glitter to create a secondary line. I think the black eye liner will really stand out against my model's pale skin and blonde hair as it is so dark, which is why I chose this look for the blonde model. I want to keep the eye brows fairly natural looking, but strong enough to balance out the eye liner. I will add either natural looking fake eye lashes to the top lash line or slightly bigger, spiky fake lashes because I think it's more flattering to have visible eye lashes and I want the viewer to be admirable of the look. I want to add some glitter into the inner corner because I want the look to be very fun and girly, as well as bold, and I think the glitter in the inner corner will brighten up the eyes and give them a twinkle.
MARCH, B., 2015. Spring/Summer 2016 hair and makeup trends [viewed 1st February 2016].
Available from: 
http://www.cosmopolitan.co.uk/beauty-hair/beauty-trends/g4142/spring-summer-2016-hair-makeup-trends/?slide=59

I was inspired by J. W. Anderson's SS16 Fashion Week makeup because the skin looks very luminous and healthy. I want my blonde model to have dewy looking skin as I want her to look very youthful and fresh. The eyes and lips are very dramatic in the makeup look so I want the skin to look flawless but still natural. I will add a lot of cream highlighter to the high points of my model's face to give a dewy look and then add a cream bronzer to browse up the face. I don't want to give my model a dramatic contour because I still want the face to look natural; however I still want the face to look defined and warm to contrast with the harsh black liner. My model have very high cheekbones and a lot of cheek space so I may add a touch of cream blush if I feel the face looks too bare.
MARCH, B., 2015. Spring/Summer 2016 hair and makeup trends [viewed 1st February 2016].
Available from: 
http://www.cosmopolitan.co.uk/beauty-hair/beauty-trends/g4142/spring-summer-2016-hair-makeup-trends/?slide=35

For the lips, I was inspired by Jenny Packham's bright red lip for her SS16 Fashion Week collection. I like how the lip is very matte, but still bright and fun. I am creating a collage out of this makeup look which is why I am making both the eyes and lips stand out. I want the blonde haired model to wear the most dramatic makeup because I think that she could pull off the brightest makeup out of the models I have chosen for the rest of my collage. I am aware that you would not necessarily want to put this eye look with this lip look; however I want both features to make a statement in my collage. I have therefore chosen to give my model a bright red, matte lip as it is very daring looking and also a popular SS16 trend.
MARCH, B., 2015. Spring/Summer 2016 hair and makeup trends [viewed 1st February 2016].
Available from: 
http://www.cosmopolitan.co.uk/beauty-hair/beauty-trends/g4142/spring-summer-2016-hair-makeup-trends/?slide=61
Chosen Face Chart
Equipment:
-Johnson's Baby Lotion
-Cotton Pads
-Nars Illuminator in Copacabana
-L'Oreal True Match Foundation in W1
-Real Techniques Contour Brush
-Tape
-Illamasqua Gel Eyeliner in Infinity
-Mac 210 Eyeliner Brush
-LASplash Eyeshadow Sealer
-Mac Glitter in Gold
-Silk Pro Eye Detailer Brush
-Duo Lash Glue
-Red Cherry Eye Lashes in #42
-Tweezers
-Maybelline The Colossal Volum' Express Mascara in Black
-Johnson's Makeup Wipes
-Mac Pro Longwear Concealer in NC15
-Mac 217 Brush
-Laura Mercier Translucent Setting Powder
-Real Techniques Setting Brush
-Rimmel Eye Brow Pencil in Blonde
-Zoeva 233 Cream Shader Eye Brush
-Mac Cream Colour Base in Pearl
-Nars Illuminator in Copacabana
-Bourjous Bronzing Primer
-Style Master Fluffy Concealer Brush
-Accessorise Cream Blush in Rose
-Mac LipMix in Red

Step by step:
1. I first moisturised the face with Johnson's Baby Lotion on a cotton pad to remove any excess dirt or makeup and to hydrated the skin for makeup application.
2. I then mixed my Nars Illuminator in Copacabana and my L'Oreal True Match Foundation in W1 on the back of my hand and then applied it with the Real Techniques Contour Brush all over the face, making sure to blend it down the neck and onto the ears. I made sure I didn't apply too much product as I wanted the skin to still look natural and soft.
3. I placed some tape on the outside edge of each eye, going from the outside corner to just further down than the eye brow to create a perfect straight line for the eye liner.
4. I used my Illamasqua Gel Eyeliner in Infinity and my Mac 210 Eyeliner Brush to draw on the eyeliner. I first drew a line along the upper lash line, keeping it relatively thin, and then followed the tape to create a dramatic flick.
5. I applied some LASplash Eyeshadow Sealer to act as glitter glue above the black eye liner with the Silk Pro Eye Detailer Brush, making the line slightly thicker than the black eyeliner.
6. Using the same Silk Pro Eye Detailer Brush I dabbed on my Mac Glitter in Gold along where I had put the glitter glue, keeping it as neat as possible.
7. I also applied some of this Mac Glitter in Gold to the inner corner using the same Silk Pro Eye Detailer Brush.
8. I removed the tape to reeal a perfect, crisp line.
9. I applied some Duo Lash Glue to some Red Cherry Eye Lashes in #42 and let that get tacky. I then applied them to both eyes with tweezers, making sure to stick them as close to the lash line as possible.
10. My model then applied a light layer of Maybelline The Colossal Volum' Express Mascara in Black on her top eye lashes to blend her natural lashes with the false lashes. She felt more comfortable doing this herself.
11. I used the Johnson's Makeup Wipes to remove any glitter that had fallen onto her cheeks.
12. I applied some Mac Pro Longwear Concealer in NC15 under the eyes in a slight triangle shape, in the centre of the forehead, down the centre of the nose, on the cupids bow and on the chin because I wanted to brighten these areas and also conceal. I blended all this concealer out with the Mac 217 Brush to blend it seamlessly with the foundation.
12. I applied some Laura Mercier Translucent Setting Powder under her eyes with the Real Techniques Setting Brush to set the under eye concealer, as this is where the conceal is most likely to crease.
13. I used the Rimmel Eye Brow Pencil in Blonde to fill in the eye brows and then used the Mac Pro Longwear Concealer in NC1 and the Zoeva 233 Cream Shader Eye Brush to clean up the underneath of the eye brow.
14. I applied some Mac Cream Colour Base in Pearl with my fingers on the tops of the cheek bones, down the centre of the nose, in the centre of the forehead and on the cupids bow to add some glow to these areas.
15. I then intensified it with some of the Nars Illuminator in Copacabana over where I put the Mac cream highlighter.
16. I applied some the Bourjous Bronzing Primer under the cheek bones, around the forehead and either side of the nose. I used the Style Master Fluffy Concealer Brush for this with a very light hand as I wanted it to look natural.
17. I applied some Accessorise Cream Blush in Rose on the apples of the cheeks with my fingers and blended it up the cheek bones to give it a diffused look.
18. I finally applied the Mac LipMix in Red all over the lips with the Zoeva 233 Cream Shader Eye Brush, making the lips look as even and perfected as possible.


I am so happy with how this shoot went! I used one soft box light in front of her face, slightly above her to give a soft and flattering light. I used a black background because the background of my collage will be black as I want it to look very neat but bold and I associate the colour black with Mac cosmetics as it is used in their logo. I experimented with using a beauty dish too; however the light was too harsh on the model, which I felt brought out her imperfections. 

I am so happy with how the makeup turned out! The skin looked ery natural, but still flawless. I think layering the Mac Cream Colour Base and Nars Liquid Highlighter gave the perfect dewy finish, without being too sparkly. My model has very full cheeks so I wanted to add some cream blush to give her a flushed look and to emphasise the full cheek look. I wanted my model to have a fresh faced and healthy look so I wanted to add blush to give her a natural flushed look. My model has beautifully defined cheek bones so I only added a subtle bit of bronzer to warm up the face and give more definition. I struggled to find the right colour for her eye brows because I realised that I usually work on people with darker eye brows. I found that the products I was using looked grey toned in the pan but gave the eye brows a slight orange tone which I didn't like! I therefore went over them lightly with some concealer and found that this toned them down a gave them a more grey toned finish. The glitter transferred to the upper lid more easily than I thought it would because my model had oily eye lids but I found it was easily removed so it wasn't too much of a problem. I found the Mac Lip Mix a dream to work with! It had a very smooth and creamy consistency which made it glide on with the lip brush and I found the creaminess gave me lots of control as it didn't run or bleed off the lips. I like that it had a matte finish as this was the look I was going for as it is a definite 2016 spring/summer trend.

When creating this makeup look I took into consideration a lot of Mirijana Vasoic's tips. I made sure I used little product all over the face to give a more natural look and I used very soft brushes so the product wasn't applied too densely. The biggest difference I found was applying the lipstick. I usually dread applying lipstick because I find lipstick quite drying to work with; however I used the Mac Lip Mix for this look and I found it so easily to use! I loved how easily the product glided onto the lips with a lip brush, making it very easy to get smooth lines. I also took her advice when she said the model should tilt her head to the left when doing the right side of her upper lip because it makes the angle so much easier to work with.

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