Designing my Makeup Look (Wash & Dry)

I want this makeup look to be my more dramatic look because the model will be positioned far away and I still want the makeup look to stand out. I wanted to incorporate doll makeup with retro makeup for my Wash & Dry Mac collection advert. I wanted to include a doll element because I have continuously said that I want my model to look very doll-like and almost plastic looking, as that is the look Mac usually goes for, and so I wanted to enhance that with the makeup. I don't want to make the makeup very over the top and obviously like a doll; however I want to take small elements of doll makeup and subtly add them to my look. I want to include a retro theme in my makeup look because the images that I have researched from Miles Aldridge and Jamie Nelson have a slight retro vibe to them. My model's swimsuit is slightly retro so I thought the makeup could reflect that. 

I have previously research into Mac collection adverts and these were my findings regarding the makeup used: 

The makeup is beautifully executed and blended. The models' skin is always flawless, with no freckles, hairs or other imperfections showing. In the majority of looks the skin looks very dewy and glowy, with the high pointed being emphasised with highlight. In all the makeup looks there is heavy contouring, whether that be with bronzer or a blush coloured product. All the models have bold lip colours and there lips look very full and plump; there has been a mixture of matte and glossy finishes used. The eye shadow looks are different in all the adverts; however all the eye looks are bold and coloured has definitely been favoured. In many of the adverts the eyes have eye shadow blended up to their eye brows and smoked out dramatically to make the eyes look very big and doll-like. The eye brows look very natural in all the looks shown; apart from the Wash & Dry close-up shot because the advert is based on the eye brows. 

Doll Inspired Makeup

Barbie
RADEON, 2012. Barbie doll wallpapers, pictures, snapshot of katrina kaif [viewed 13th March 2016]. 
Available from: http://radeonidea.blogspot.co.uk/2012/08/barbie-doll-wallpapers-pictures.html

When I think of a doll, I automatically either think of a porcelain china doll or Barbie and Barbie is the look I chose to be inspired by for this makeup look because she is thought of as being perfect looking and she is what many young girls aspire to look like. I chose my model because she has big eye, a small nose, plump lips and a youthful looking face, as aesthetics Barbie has. Barbie's lips are very full and glossy looking so I will make sure my model's lips look plump, possibly by over lining them slightly and I will add a shine on top of the colour I choose to use. Barbie has very blue eyes; my model has blue eyes but they are not as bright as Barbie's so I may use contacts to enhance them or just do this in post production. Barbie has very natural looking, but defined eye brows so I will make sure my model's eye brows are groomed to perfection but not too heavy or dark. Barbie wears very dramatic eye lashes and looks like she wears a cut crease, both things that I could use to make my model's eye look bigger and more doll-like. I will keep the perfect, plastic look of Barbie in my head when designing my makeup look.

Louis Vuitton SS16 Model
MARCH, B., 2015. Spring/Summer 2016 hair and makeup trends [viewed 1st February 2016].
Available from: http://www.cosmopolitan.co.uk/beauty-hair/beauty-trends/g4142/spring-summer-2016-hair-makeup-trends/?slide=1

I was inspired by the two catwalk looks below, by Louis Vuitton and Jeremy Scott, because of the eyelashes and eye liner used to give the models doll-like shaped eyes. I really like how Louis Vuitton's girl is wearing exaggerated eyelashes on her top and bottom eye lashes because it makes her eye look very big and doll-like. The eye lashes on the bottom lash line are the feature that makes this look different from others, especially because only one thick clump of eye lashes have been used. The lower eye lashes have been positioned lower than her natural lash line, making it look like her lower lash line is further down and therefore making her eyes look bigger. I may include this technique in my makeup look to give my model more round and big looking eyes. This model's eyes look very blue and defined which I think add to the doll-like effect. This inspired me to use coloured contact lenses on my model to give her that almost Anime look. 

Jeremy Scott SS16 Model
MARCH, B., 2015. Spring/Summer 2016 hair and makeup trends [viewed 1st February 2016].
Available from: http://www.cosmopolitan.co.uk/beauty-hair/beauty-trends/g4142/spring-summer-2016-hair-makeup-trends/?slide=55

I was also inspired by Jeremy Scott's graphic liner look. They didn't use any mascara for this look because the graphic eye liner imitated eyelashes. The eye liner was navy blue, even though it looks black in this photo, and drawn on the lower lash line to look like dramatic, oversized lower lashes. Upper eye lashes were not drawn on but a giant wing was added to the corners of the eyes so continue the spiky graphic liner look. I like that this made the model's eye look larger and more doll-like; however I think I would prefer to experiment with fake eye lashes to give a more fun and 3-dimensional look. 

Retro - 1950s Inspired

Marilyn Monroe was an iconic actress and model in the 1950s and is one of the most instantly recognisable sex symbols of all time. Her iconic look was created after she had divorced her husband, Dougherty, and signed her first movie contract. This is also when she changed her name to Marilyn Monroe, after being born with the name Norma Jeane Mortenson. Her iconic look started when she dies her hair platinum blonde, had a nose job to slim her nose and further surgery to correct an over bite. It was around this time she set her makeup artist, Allan Snyder who would stay with her throughout her successful career. 

Marilyn Monroe's makeup artist would prepare her skin by applying a thick layer of vaseline all over her face to keep her skin hydrated and to give her a beautiful glow under the film set lights. This is not something that I would prefer to do on my model, however I will create a dewy finish to the skin using new, modern products, such as illuminators. Marilyn always went for glowing skin as she knew that would keep her looking young and fresh. This is a look that Mac definitely favour in their collection adverts as they want their models to have the same youthful, doll-like look. Marlin went for a sexy cat eye shaped eye, with winged out half lashes used to elongate the eye. She accentuated the cat eye look with a brown pencil eyeliner to create a winger liner. She used this to lift the eye and, again, elongate it for a seductive look. Marilyn's makeup artist used a brown eye shadow along the lower lash line and created a shadow on the outer corner to look like the shadow cast by her heavy upper eye lashes. This was a very soft line to make it look as natural as possible. A white pencil was then shaded in-between the wing liner and shadow to enhance this. He also put a white pencil eye liner in the waterline to open up the eyes to make them look bigger and brighter. Her eye brows were drawn on in a high arch shape to give the appearance of space above her eyes and then a red dot of lipstick was placed in the inner corners to make her eyes appear whiter. I may include this trick of the red in the inner corner in my makeup to make my model's eyes stand out and look brighter. Contouring was used to lightly shape her cheek bones and nose, but the emphasis was put on the pink/coral blush used on her cheeks, on her temples and on her nose to give her a flushed, youthful look. Marilyn wanted her lips to look as plump and luscious as possible, sometimes using five layers of the same lipstick to create the full look she was after. A darker red lip pencil was used to shape the lips, making them higher on the outer corners. Allan Snyder would then use a darker lipstick around the outer edge and a lighter red in the middle to give her lips more dimension, making them look bigger. Some white eye shadow would sometimes be added to the centre of her bottom lip to act as a highlight to emphasise her plumped up lips. She would then apply a thick layer of lipgloss to give her that signature glossy, luscious lip look. The look would be finished off with a drawn on beauty spot. 

Lisa Eldridge's YouTube video on Marilyn Monroe's Makeup Look

ELDRIDGE, L., 2012. Marilyn Monroe - Iconic Make-up Look [viewed 13th March 2016]. 
Available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RAneUTr8mog

Face Chart 1

In this face chart I gave the model very dewy and fresh skin to reflect the 2016 spring/summer trend of glowy skin and because Mac gave their models dewy skin in all the collection adverts I looked into. I think the dewy skin will make the model look very healthy and fresh, as if she is lying in the sun. I chose to contour the model's face with a peachy pink blush to give the model some colour and definition, without making her look very bronzy. I wanted my model to look more flushed than bronzed to reflect the bright colour scheme of pinks, oranges and yellows. I chose to give my model very natural looking eye brows, but with definition to softly frame the face. I chose to give my model a strong black winged eyeliner to reflect the eyeliner worn in the 1950s, but I wanted to exaggerate it to make it more modern and into a graphic liner, which is a 2016 spring/summer trend. I then decided to add some silver glitter on the eye lid to add a fun and girly touch to reflect the bright and cartoon like background and styling. I added fake eye lashes on the top lash line, but kept them relatively natural because I didn't want the eyeliner and glitter to be covered. I also decided to add natural looking bottom eye lashes on the outer corner to give my model a doll-like look, with big eyes. I chose to give my model a peachy pink lip to match the swimsuit colour; however it came out a lot darker and less vibrant than the swim suit; therefore I don't think I'll use this lipstick because it would just look like I tried and failed to match the lipstick colour. I decided it would be fun to use blue contact lenses for this look to make her eyes stand out and look more round and doll-like. I was inspired to do this by Louis Vuitton's SS16 girl because her eyes look so blue and enticing, as if she is wearing contacts. I really like this look; however I don't think it is bright or fun enough and I don't think it incorporates enough 2016 spring/summer trends. 

Face Chart 2

I was inspired by the SS16 House of Holland girls with their beautifully bronzed and glowing skin. I wanted to give my model the same golden glow and dewy skin. Dewy skin is also a big 2016 spring/summer trend, making my model look very up to date and on trend. I would apply a bronzy coloured foundation to the skin and then apply some bronzer on top to achieve the warm look for my Mac shoot; however if I were doing a more natural look I would use fake tan to achieve the golden skin. I gave my model very natural looking eye brows to softly frame the face but I didn't want them to be over powering. I was inspired by Diane Von Furstenburg to give my model a dramatic blue smokey eye. Diane Von Furstenburg gave their models an ombre smokey eye using shimmery blues and greens; however I went for brighter blues to give a more intense and fun look. Blue on the eyes is a big 2016 spring/summer trend so I wanted to emphasis this aspect. I applied some dramatic eye lashes on top and a small clump of fake lashes on the bottom lash line to give the model's eyes a doll-like shape; I was inspired to do this by Louis Vuitton's SS16 girls with the exaggerated eye lashes. Dramatic eye lashes are another 2016 spring/summer trend so I was eager to include this aspect. I decided to finish the look off with a coral lip. I tried to match the lipstick to the swimsuit; however it came out a lot darker and the wrong tone so I won't be using this lipstick as I don't think it compliments the swimsuit colour. I really like how this look incorporates many different 2016 spring/summer trends; however I want to make the look more cartoon and doll-like so I will experiment with bolder makeup with sharper and harsher lines. 

House of Holland SS16 Model.
MARCH, B., 2015. Spring/Summer 2016 hair and makeup trends [viewed 1st February 2016].
Available from: http://www.cosmopolitan.co.uk/beauty-hair/beauty-trends/g4142/spring-summer-2016-hair-makeup-trends/?slide=39

Diane Von Fürstenburg's SS16 Model.
MARCH, B., 2015. Spring/Summer 2016 hair and makeup trends [viewed 1st February 2016].
Available from: http://www.cosmopolitan.co.uk/beauty-hair/beauty-trends/g4142/spring-summer-2016-hair-makeup-trends/?slide=57

Face Chart 3

For this face chart I was inspired by the image below with the very bright and colourful makeup. I love how each colour is very strong and bold because it gives the makeup a cartoon-like effect. I decided to give my model very dewy skin; however instead of the skin being dewy all over I decided to give my model a matte face and then highlight only the areas I want highlighted. I felt like this was going to look more flattering and more doll-like because the highlight would be more concentrated. I also think that if the model's skin was dewy all over it would look slightly messy with the bold makeup. I used a peachy pink blush to contour the cheek bones. I did this quite strong because Mac tend to give their models a strong contour in their collection adverts and I thought it would balance out the rest of the bright makeup. I decided on a natural eye brow because I wanted the focus to be on the eyes and lips, but I still wanted to frame the face. I was inspired by the graphic black and yellow eyeliner in the image below so I gave my model a thick black winged eyeliner and then traced along the top white a bright yellow. Graphic eye liner is a 2016 spring/summer trend and I thought it gave a cartoon finish with the very clean and sharp lines to reflect the very staged and fake looking backdrop and positioning of the model in my shoot. I gave my model very long and spiky fake eye lashes along the top lash line and a clump of fake eye lashes on the bottom lash line to give my model a doll-like look; this was inspired by Louis Vuitton's SS16 girls. I gave my model a rich red/pink colour on the lips because red lips are a big 2016 spring/summer trend and it would look very bold and luscious on the lips. I wanted to use red because it clashes with the pink swimsuit; however it still compliments the pink, yellow and orange colour scheme of the shoot. I really like this makeup look; however I wanted to incorporate blue colours on the eyes as my model has blue eyes and blue eyes is such a big 2016 spring/summer predicted trend. 

BELLEZA&MODA, 2014. How to apply eyeliner [viewed 13th March 2016]. 
Available from: http://hubpages.com/style/Eye-makeup-tips-5-
steps-to-create-the-perfect-cat-eyes-look

Face Chart 4 (Chosen look)
I chose to give my model a matte face all over and then add highlighted areas where I wanted as I didn't want my model's face to be completely shiny looking. I want my model to look as doll-like and plastic as possible so I want to just add the highlight in the flattering areas of the face. It looks like this is what the models wore in the Mac collection adverts because only the high points of the face are glowing and not places like, for example, either side of the nose. I chose to use a coral blush to compliment the coral tones in the swimsuit and I will lightly contour the face to give her more definition around her forehead and cheek bones. I chose to give my model a natural eye brow so they could softly frame the face. I chose to do a graphic eyeliner look because I think it can look very cartoon-like which I think would reflect my fake looking, staged background and model positioning. I was inspired by the feminine cat eye look Marylin Monroe wore in the 1950s; however I wanted to exaggerate this iconic look and add some colour. I chose to give my model a dramatic wing in black to make the eyes look very big and bold, and I then chose to add a blue line right above that liner to make it more dramatic and to add the blue colour to the eyes, to follow the blue eye 2016 spring/summer trend. I chose to add dramatic, long, spiky fake eye lashes on the outer corner on the top lash line and then add a clump of dramatic eye lashes on the bottom lash line to give my model doll-like and graphic looking eyes; this was inspired by Louis Vuitton's SS16 girl. I considered adding blue eye contacts to my look; however I think this will look too fake and my model has blue eyes already. I chose to give my model an ombre lip. You can't see the two colours very well on my face chart; however I chose to use a vibrant orange colour on the outer part of the lips and then a bright coral in the middle. I chose to do this to give my model very bold lips and because I felt the two colours complimented the pink, yellow and orange colour scheme and they went with the bright coral swimsuit. I am not sure whether to make the lips matte or glossy yet; however I think I will go for glossy as that will make them look more plastic and luscious, which is a loot Mac definitely favour in their collection adverts.

Resources:

BERESINER, S., 2015. The Beauty Look At Jeremy Scott Is Plastic Fantastic [viewed 13th March 2016]. Available from: http://www.elleuk.com/beauty/the-beauty-look-at-jeremy-scott-is-plastic-fantastic-backstage-new-york-fashion-week

ELDRIDGE, L., 2012. Marilyn Monroe - Iconic Make-up Look [viewed 13th March 2016]. 

Available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RAneUTr8mog

BIO, 2016. Marilyn Monroe Bibliography [viewed 13th March 2016]. Available from:  http://www.biography.com/people/marilyn-monroe-9412123#famed-career