Ashley Williams, London Fashion Week SS16
Ashley Williams paired up wit Mac for her NEWGEN collection and debut solo runway collection at London Fashion Week. The clothing was not Ashley Williams' usual style, but instead showed a more dark, sinister side to her. The clothing was gothic, with text prints saying, for example, 'BAD MOOD' which definitely set the mood for the collection. The collection also included graphics of giant flies and goats heads which are an emblem of the devil. Ashley Williams described her SS16 girl as being "angsty" which means that she feels like know one understands her and she feels alone which was the kind of dark mood she was trying to portray.
The gothic makeup was designed by Mac makeup artist Isamaya Ffrench. The makeup was inspired by Marilyn Manson with his blocked out eye brows and dark lips. The eyebrows of the girls were blocked out and concealed, with a thin pencil eye brows drawn over the top, as a rebellion against the popular bushy eye brow. The models wore blue mascara which correctly predicted the blue eye trend and the lips were bright red with a glossy finish which was, again, very on trend for spring/summer 2016. The look was finished off with a strong cheek contour and very slightly hollowed out looking eyes. The gothic hair was created by Tony & Guy's global ambassador Mark Hampton. He blow dried the hair smooth, randomly tonged sections to add some rough kinks and then put it into a deep side part so one side was a lot heavier to create that punk, rebellious look. I think that this makeup and hair look definitely complements the collection because the thin, lifted eyebrows make the eyes look more sunken in and therefore more tired and dark looking. I also like how rebellious the eye brow look is as it compliments the rebellious, punk mood of the collection.
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| STYLIST. London Fashion Week insider blog - from frow to backstage and everything inbetween [viewed 2nd February 2016]. Available from: http://www.stylist.co.uk/fashion-week/london-fashion-week-ss16-insider- blog-shows-frows-backstage-celebrities-parties-beauty-designers-editors |
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| LONDONFASHIONWEEK, 2016. Ashley Williams Autumn/Winter 2016 [viewed 2nd February 2016]. Available from: http://www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/designers_profile.aspx?DesignerID=2159 |
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LONDONFASHIONWEEK, 2016. Ashley Williams Autumn/Winter 2016 [viewed 2nd February 2016].
Available from: http://www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/designers_profile.aspx?DesignerID=215
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Jonathan Saunders' London Fashion Week Neo-Oriental collection was full of fun patterns, including paisleys and patchworks. Many bright colours were used in this collection, from yellows to pinks to blues and the silhouettes, with the wrap dresses and kimonos looked very oriental.
The makeup was kept very simple so that all the attention was on the beautiful outfits. The skin looked very natural with a soft contour and the lips were a slightly glossy peachy nude. The eyes were the main focus, with Mac's Lucia Peroni applying an intense blue pigment all round the eyes to make them stand out. No mascara was added to this look which really makes the blue pop, as I think adding mascara would have made the colour look darker. Hair stylist Luke Hersheson gave the models pin straight hair to complement the oriental style of the collection. He said about this look, "There’s something really fresh about dead straight hair again, I think it’s a backlash against all the waves and movement that are now common on the red carpet". The two makeup and hair looks above show Mac using makeup in a very creative and abstract way; however Mac is a very diverse brand and can therefore give their models soft and natural looks too.
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| LEAPER, C., 2015. 6 Beautiful Things We Spotted Backstage At Jonathan Saunders' SS16 Show [viewed 2nd February 2016]. Available from: http://www.marieclaire.co.uk/news/fashion/550504/jonathan-saunders-ss16-fashion-show-collection-pictures.html#index=1 |
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Mary Katrantzou said she wanted the collection to be "enchanting and beautiful". The collection had many shimmering, glittery dresses with sequins and jewels embroidered on them. The colour scheme looked like deep and warm colours and all the patterns looked very fussy and almost tribal.
Mac makeup artist Lucia Peieroni created this look that she described as "odds dolls - pretty, but in a weird way" and I think she definitely created that effect. The predicted blue eye trend was used here with some bright blue Mac Acrylic Paint being painted onto her eye lashes. However the paint has only been put in the centre part of the eye lashes creating a doll-like, round shape to the eye. The rest of the face was kept very natural, with a soft contour and nude lips and then with bushy looking eye brows. From a distance some of the models on the catwalk didn't look like they were wearing any eye makeup which made them look very flat and almost ill looking, which I don't really like. All the models had there hair in a deep side part with a natural wave to it and it was tucked behind there ears to give a clean look. I think the simple hair and makeup worked well with this collection because it would have looked too messy and busy if the makeup and hair were also as fussy as the clothing.
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| LUCYXX, 2015. Fashion Week SS16; The 30 Hottest Makeup Looks [viewed 2nd February 2016]. Available from: http://mascarawars.com/fashion-week-makeup-ss16/ |
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| VOGUE, 2016. Mary Katrantzou [viewed 2nd February 2016]. Available from: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2016/ready- to-wear/mary-katrantzou/close-up-photos/gallery/1477015 |
Issey Miyake is a Japanese fashion designer. He is most well-known for using new technologies and intelligent materials because he is passionate about not restricting himself to what has already been invented. In his 2016 Spring/Summer collection for fashion week, Butterflies Through The Jungle, he created clothing with a special fabric that reacts to heat. He created the pleating affect by applying lines of glue across the fabric and then stripes of coloured dye in between. This meant that when the fabric was put under the oven the fabric without the glue on would rise and expand to created small curved ridges to make the pleated effect. This fabric moves easily which meant that the pleats in the fabric would bounced when the model moved.
Makeup artist Alex Box designed the makeup look for this collection. Alex Box was initially inspired by how light falls between the leaves in rain forests to create interesting effects of light on the face, which lead her to think she wanted there to be colour traveling randomly across the face; this is becase Issey Miyake's collection was called 'Butterflies Through The Jungle'. She said she was inspired by bright birds of paradise and coloured butterflies where you only see flashes of the colour through the leaves of the jungle. The paint was positioned out the corner of the eye because Alex Box says you always see things that you're not quite sure what they are out the corner of your eye, so she wanted to incorporate that in the makeup look. Alex Box wanted the colour from the eye to look very organic, as if they were roots of flowers, so she decided to blow the pigments through a straw to make sure she didn't control the colour too much to let the pigment make its own path. Mac Pigments and Water Based Mixing Medium were mixed together to create a flowing coloured mixture which wouldn't crack or go chalky. However she found the mixture stained the skin so they made sure they used lots of Dermashield which acts as a barrier against the skin. Alex Box applied this design to the model by asking the model to lie down and then blowing the mixture from the corner of the eye outwards using a straw. She placed the mixture down on the face in sections with a brush and then blew the paint in different directions. She did them in separate sections so that all the mixture didn't clump together to create a big smudged look.
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| Example of Issey Miyake's SS16 Designs. HOWARTH, D., 2016. Issey Miyake bakes fabric to pleat Spring Summer 2016 garments [viewed 2nd February 2016]. Available from: http://www.dezeen.com/2016/01/08/spring-summer-2016-fashion-collection-issey-miyake/ |
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| Alex Box experimenting with blowing coloured mixtures. JOHNSON, M., 2015. Paris Fashion Week; Alex Box Style! [viewed 2nd February 2016]. Available from: http://mascarawars.com/alex-box-fashion-week/ |
A video showing Alex Box's inspiration and thought process of the makeup look.
VIDEOFASHION, 2015. "Butterflies Through The Jungle " Backstage Makeup at Issey Myyake - SS16 - Paris Fashion Week
[viewed 2nd February 2016]. Available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cedfFr1fIX0
Resources:
STYLIST. London Fashion Week insider blog - from frow to backstage and everything inbetween [viewed 2nd February 2016]. Available from: http://www.stylist.co.uk/fashion-week/london-fashion-week-ss16-insider-blog-shows-frows-backstage-celebrities-parties-beauty-designers-editors
LEAPER, C., 2015. 6 Beautiful Things We Spotted Backstage At Jonathan Saunders' SS16 Show [viewed 2nd February 2016]. Available from: http://www.marieclaire.co.uk/news/fashion/550504/jonathan-saunders-ss16-fashion-show-collection-pictures.html#index=1
VOGUE, 2016. Mary Katrantzou [viewed 2nd February 2016]. Available from:
http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2016/ready-
to-wear/mary-katrantzou/close-up-photos/gallery/1477015
ISSEYMIYAKE, 2014. The Concepts and Works of Issey Miyake [viewed 2nd February 2016]. Available from: http://mds.isseymiyake.com/im/en/work/
HOWARTH, D., 2016. Issey Miyake bakes fabric to pleat Spring Summer 2016 garments [viewed 2nd February 2016]. Available from: http://www.dezeen.com/2016/01/08/spring-summer-2016-fashion-collection-issey-miyake/
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