Makeup for Blonde Model

Explaining my Chosen Face Chart

I wanted to give this model a beautiful glittery look. I was inspired by Creatures of The Wind's makeup, by Aaron De Mey, with the bold black graphic eye and then bold gold glitter. I really like how the smooth and rough textures contrast with each other and how the two colours are bold, making it a very powerful look. I want to make my eye liner look slightly more subtle as it is going to be included in a Mac advert, where the looks tend to be more wearable, rather than high fashion. I therefore will not cover the whole eye lid and up to the eye brow with glitter, but will instead just follow the line of the the eye liner with the gold glitter to create a secondary line. I think the black eye liner will really stand out against my model's pale skin and blonde hair as it is so dark, which is why I chose this look for the blonde model. I want to keep the eye brows fairly natural looking, but strong enough to balance out the eye liner. I will add either natural looking fake eye lashes to the top lash line or slightly bigger, spiky fake lashes because I think it's more flattering to have visible eye lashes and I want the viewer to be admirable of the look. I want to add some glitter into the inner corner because I want the look to be very fun and girly, as well as bold, and I think the glitter in the inner corner will brighten up the eyes and give them a twinkle.

MARCH, B., 2015. Spring/Summer 2016 hair and makeup trends [viewed 1st February 2016].
Available from: http://www.cosmopolitan.co.uk/beauty-hair/beauty-trends/g4142/spring-summer-2016-hair-makeup-trends/?slide=59

I was inspired by J. W. Anderson's SS16 Fashion Week makeup because the skin looks very luminous and healthy. I want my blonde model to have dewy looking skin as I want her to look very youthful and fresh. The eyes and lips are very dramatic in the makeup look so I want the skin to look flawless but still natural. I will add a lot of cream highlighter to the high points of my model's face to give a dewy look and then add a cream bronzer to browse up the face. I don't want to give my model a dramatic contour because I still want the face to look natural; however I still want the face to look defined and warm to contrast with the harsh black liner. My model have very high cheekbones and a lot of cheek space so I may add a touch of cream blush if I feel the face looks too bare.

MARCH, B., 2015. Spring/Summer 2016 hair and makeup trends [viewed 1st February 2016].
Available from: http://www.cosmopolitan.co.uk/beauty-hair/beauty-trends/g4142/spring-summer-2016-hair-makeup-trends/?slide=35

For the lips, I was inspired by Jenny Packham's bright red lip for her SS16 Fashion Week collection. I like how the lip is very matte, but still bright and fun. I am creating a collage out of this makeup look which is why I am making both the eyes and lips stand out. I want the blonde haired model to wear the most dramatic makeup because I think that she could pull off the brightest makeup out of the models I have chosen for the rest of my collage. I am aware that you would not necessarily want to put this eye look with this lip look; however I want both features to make a statement in my collage. I have therefore chosen to give my model a bright red, matte lip as it is very daring looking and also a popular SS16 trend.

MARCH, B., 2015. Spring/Summer 2016 hair and makeup trends [viewed 1st February 2016].
Available from: http://www.cosmopolitan.co.uk/beauty-hair/beauty-trends/g4142/spring-summer-2016-hair-makeup-trends/?slide=61

Chosen Face Chart

Equipment:
-Johnson's Baby Lotion
-Cotton Pads
-Nars Illuminator in Copacabana
-L'Oreal True Match Foundation in W1
-Real Techniques Contour Brush
-Tape
-Illamasqua Gel Eyeliner in Infinity
-Mac 210 Eyeliner Brush
-LASplash Eyeshadow Sealer
-Mac Glitter in Gold
-Silk Pro Eye Detailer Brush
-Duo Lash Glue
-Red Cherry Eye Lashes in #42
-Tweezers
-Maybelline The Colossal Volum' Express Mascara in Black
-Johnson's Makeup Wipes
-Mac Pro Longwear Concealer in NC15
-Mac 217 Brush
-Laura Mercier Translucent Setting Powder
-Real Techniques Setting Brush
-Rimmel Eye Brow Pencil in Blonde
-Zoeva 233 Cream Shader Eye Brush
-Mac Cream Colour Base in Pearl
-Nars Illuminator in Copacabana
-Bourjous Bronzing Primer
-Style Master Fluffy Concealer Brush
-Accessorise Cream Blush in Rose
-Mac LipMix in Red

Step by step:
1. I first moisturised the face with Johnson's Baby Lotion on a cotton pad to remove any excess dirt or makeup and to hydrated the skin for makeup application.
2. I then mixed my Nars Illuminator in Copacabana and my L'Oreal True Match Foundation in W1 on the back of my hand and then applied it with the Real Techniques Contour Brush all over the face, making sure to blend it down the neck and onto the ears. I made sure I didn't apply too much product as I wanted the skin to still look natural and soft.
3. I placed some tape on the outside edge of each eye, going from the outside corner to just further down than the eye brow to create a perfect straight line for the eye liner.
4. I used my Illamasqua Gel Eyeliner in Infinity and my Mac 210 Eyeliner Brush to draw on the eyeliner. I first drew a line along the upper lash line, keeping it relatively thin, and then followed the tape to create a dramatic flick.
5. I applied some LASplash Eyeshadow Sealer to act as glitter glue above the black eye liner with the Silk Pro Eye Detailer Brush, making the line slightly thicker than the black eyeliner.
6. Using the same Silk Pro Eye Detailer Brush I dabbed on my Mac Glitter in Gold along where I had put the glitter glue, keeping it as neat as possible.
7. I also applied some of this Mac Glitter in Gold to the inner corner using the same Silk Pro Eye Detailer Brush.
8. I removed the tape to reeal a perfect, crisp line.
9. I applied some Duo Lash Glue to some Red Cherry Eye Lashes in #42 and let that get tacky. I then applied them to both eyes with tweezers, making sure to stick them as close to the lash line as possible.
10. My model then applied a light layer of Maybelline The Colossal Volum' Express Mascara in Black on her top eye lashes to blend her natural lashes with the false lashes. She felt more comfortable doing this herself.
11. I used the Johnson's Makeup Wipes to remove any glitter that had fallen onto her cheeks.
12. I applied some Mac Pro Longwear Concealer in NC15 under the eyes in a slight triangle shape, in the centre of the forehead, down the centre of the nose, on the cupids bow and on the chin because I wanted to brighten these areas and also conceal. I blended all this concealer out with the Mac 217 Brush to blend it seamlessly with the foundation.
12. I applied some Laura Mercier Translucent Setting Powder under her eyes with the Real Techniques Setting Brush to set the under eye concealer, as this is where the conceal is most likely to crease.
13. I used the Rimmel Eye Brow Pencil in Blonde to fill in the eye brows and then used the Mac Pro Longwear Concealer in NC1 and the Zoeva 233 Cream Shader Eye Brush to clean up the underneath of the eye brow.
14. I applied some Mac Cream Colour Base in Pearl with my fingers on the tops of the cheek bones, down the centre of the nose, in the centre of the forehead and on the cupids bow to add some glow to these areas.
15. I then intensified it with some of the Nars Illuminator in Copacabana over where I put the Mac cream highlighter.
16. I applied some the Bourjous Bronzing Primer under the cheek bones, around the forehead and either side of the nose. I used the Style Master Fluffy Concealer Brush for this with a very light hand as I wanted it to look natural.
17. I applied some Accessorise Cream Blush in Rose on the apples of the cheeks with my fingers and blended it up the cheek bones to give it a diffused look.
18. I finally applied the Mac LipMix in Red all over the lips with the Zoeva 233 Cream Shader Eye Brush, making the lips look as even and perfected as possible.

I am so happy with how this shoot went! I used one soft box light in front of her face, slightly above her to give a soft and flattering light. I used a black background because the background of my collage will be black as I want it to look very neat but bold and I associate the colour black with Mac cosmetics as it is used in their logo. I experimented with using a beauty dish too; however the light was too harsh on the model, which I felt brought out her imperfections. 

I am so happy with how the makeup turned out! The skin looked ery natural, but still flawless. I think layering the Mac Cream Colour Base and Nars Liquid Highlighter gave the perfect dewy finish, without being too sparkly. My model has very full cheeks so I wanted to add some cream blush to give her a flushed look and to emphasise the full cheek look. I wanted my model to have a fresh faced and healthy look so I wanted to add blush to give her a natural flushed look. My model has beautifully defined cheek bones so I only added a subtle bit of bronzer to warm up the face and give more definition. I struggled to find the right colour for her eye brows because I realised that I usually work on people with darker eye brows. I found that the products I was using looked grey toned in the pan but gave the eye brows a slight orange tone which I didn't like! I therefore went over them lightly with some concealer and found that this toned them down a gave them a more grey toned finish. The glitter transferred to the upper lid more easily than I thought it would because my model had oily eye lids but I found it was easily removed so it wasn't too much of a problem. I found the Mac Lip Mix a dream to work with! It had a very smooth and creamy consistency which made it glide on with the lip brush and I found the creaminess gave me lots of control as it didn't run or bleed off the lips. I like that it had a matte finish as this was the look I was going for as it is a definite 2016 spring/summer trend.

When creating this makeup look I took into consideration a lot of Mirijana Vasoic's tips. I made sure I used little product all over the face to give a more natural look and I used very soft brushes so the product wasn't applied too densely. The biggest difference I found was applying the lipstick. I usually dread applying lipstick because I find lipstick quite drying to work with; however I used the Mac Lip Mix for this look and I found it so easily to use! I loved how easily the product glided onto the lips with a lip brush, making it very easy to get smooth lines. I also took her advice when she said the model should tilt her head to the left when doing the right side of her upper lip because it makes the angle so much easier to work with.

Practicing Blonde Model Makeup Look for Mac Editorial Collage

Equipment:
-Johnson's Baby Lotion
-Nars Illuminator in Copacabana
-L'Oreal True Match Foundation in W1
-Real Techniques Contour Brush
-Tape
-Illamasqua Gel Eyeliner in Infinity
-Mac 210 Eyeliner Brush
-LASplash Eyeshadow Sealer
-Mac Glitter in Gold
-Silk Pro Eye Detailer Brush
-Duo Lash Glue
-Ardell Eye Lashes in Gisele Black
-Tweezers
-Maybelline The Colossal Volum' Express Mascara in Black
-Johnson's Makeup Wipes
-Mac Pro Longwear Concealer in NC15
-Mac 217 Brush
-Laura Mercier Translucent Setting Powder
-Real Techniques Setting Brush
-Urban Decay Eye Shadow in Faint
-Illamasqua Angled Brush
-Zoeva 233 Cream Shader Eye Brush
-Mac Cream Colour Base in Pearl
-Nars Illuminator in Copacabana
-Bourjous Bronzing Primer
-Style Master Fluffy Concealer Brush
-Illamasqua Cream Blush in Libido
-Mac LipMix in Red
-Zoeva 233 Cream Shader Eye Brush

Step by step:
1. I first moisturised the face with Johnson's Baby Lotion to hydrated the skin for makeup application.
2. I then mixed my Nars Illuminator in Copacabana and my L'Oreal True Match Foundation in W1 on the back of my hand and then applied it with the Real Techniques Contour Brush all over the face, making sure to blend it down the neck and onto the ears. I made sure I didn't apply too much product as I wanted the skin to still look natural and soft.
3. I placed some tape on the outside edge of each eye, going from the outside corner to just further down than the eye brow to create a perfect straight line for the eye liner.
4. I used my Illamasqua Gel Eyeliner in Infinity and my Mac 210 Eyeliner Brush to draw on the eyeliner. I first drew a line along the upper lash line, keeping it relatively thin, and then followed the tape to create a dramatic flick.
5. I applied some LASplash Eyeshadow Sealer to act as glitter glue above the black eye liner with the Silk Pro Eye Detailer Brush, making the line slightly thicker than the black eyeliner.
6. Using the same Silk Pro Eye Detailer Brush I dabbed on my Mac Glitter in Gold along where I had put the glitter glue, keeping it as neat as possible.
7. I also applied some of this Mac Glitter in Gold to the inner corner using the same Silk Pro Eye Detailer Brush.
8. I removed the tape to create a perfect, crisp line.

9. I applied some Duo Lash Glue to some Ardell Eye Lashes in Gisele Black and let that get tacky. I then applied them to both eyes with tweezers, making sure to stick them as close to the lash line as possible.
10. My model then applied a light layer of Maybelline The Colossal Volum' Express Mascara in Black on her top eye lashes to blend her natural lashes with the false lashes. She felt more comfortable doing this herself.
11. I used the Johnson's Makeup Wipes to remove any glitter that had fallen onto her cheeks.
12. I applied some Mac Pro Longwear Concealer in NC15 under the eyes in a slight triangle shape, in the centre of the forehead, down the centre of the nose, on the cupids bow and on the chin because I wanted to brighten these areas and also conceal. I blended all this concealer out with the Mac 217 Brush to blend it seamlessly with the foundation.
12. I applied some Laura Mercier Translucent Setting Powder under her eyes with the Real Techniques Setting Brush to set the under eye concealer, as this is where the conceal is most likely to crease.
13. I used brush some Urban Decay Eye Shadow in Faint through the eye brows with the Illamasqua Angled Brush.

14. I applied some Mac Cream Colour Base in Pearl with my fingers on the tops of the cheek bones, down the centre of the nose, in the centre of the forehead and on the cupids bow to add some glow to these areas.
15. I then intensified it with some of the Nars Illuminator in Copacabana over where I put the Mac cream highlighter.
16. I applied some the Bourjous Bronzing Primer under the cheek bones, around the forehead and either side of the nose. I used the Style Master Fluffy Concealer Brush for this with a very light hand as I wanted it to look natural.
17. I applied some Illamasqua Cream Blush in Libido on the apples of the cheeks with my fingers and blended it up the cheek bones to give it a diffused look.
18. I finally applied the Mac LipMix in Red all over the lips with the Zoeva 233 Cream Shader Eye Brush, making the lips look as even and perfected as possible.

I am really happy with how the makeup look turned out! I love how the cream and liquid highlighter gave the skin a dewy finish because the skin looks to glowy and youthful and plump. I am really happy with my foundation choice because it is full coverage, but still has a thin consistency, making it look natural on the skin, but still flawless. I am really happy with how sharp the black eye liner looks because of the tape; however I think the gold glitter makes the line look slightly messy. I will therefore try to be more careful with where I position the glitter glue and glitter and I will go back over the liner with black to make sure it is as crisp as possible. You can see some veins and redness on the eye lids which I think makes the eyes look messy. I will therefore apply foundation over these areas to make them look seamless with the rest of the skin. I found that the glitter transferred very easily onto the eye lids which looked messy because the eye lids were slightly greasy. I will therefore make sure to add primer to the eye lids and powder them to create a matte finish so the glitter doesn't transfer as easily. I really like how the contour isn't too harsh because it gives the face definition and warmth without looking too sculpted and harsh. I liked the eye lashes that I used, but I wanted them to be more spiky and separated so that I could see the glitter liner through them. I will therefore choose some eye lashes that are the same length, but that are more separated and exaggerated. I like how the blush looks as it looked very youthful; however I think I will use a peachier colour as I think it will look softer and flattering. I was so happy with how easy the lip mix was to apply because I found it made creating a clean outline easier than using a lipstick. I also really like the colour because it is so bright and powerful and it dries to a matte finish.

Makeup for Darker Skin Model

My chosen model.

This model has beautifully warm, dark skin so I wanted to use gold metallic colours to reflect her golden skin tone. My model has very full and defined lips so I wanted to make these the central point of the makeup look. I was inspired by Prada's 2016 spring/summer makeup look at Fashion Week with the gold metallic lips. The lips definitely made a statement as they are not commonly worn by the general public so the fact that they are not usually seen drew attention. The rest of the makeup was kept very simple to emphasise the gold metallic lips. I didn't think that the gold lips were very flattering as they were almost a yellow colour so I would use a warmer tone on my model. I wanted to use a more bronzy gold or a more orange toned gold to bring out the warmth in my model's darker skin as I thought it would be more flattering. I wanted the lips to be the main feature so I want to keep the rest of the natural quite natural and understated. 

Face Chart 1

SS16 Prada Model
MARCH, B., 2015. Spring/Summer 2016 hair and makeup trends [viewed 1st February 2016].
Available from: http://www.cosmopolitan.co.uk/beauty-hair/beauty-trends/g4142/spring-summer-2016-hair-makeup-trends/?slide=18

In this face chart I decided to use Mac's pigment in Copper Sparkle all over the lips because it is a very warm, metallic bronze colour that I think reflects the warmth in her skin perfectly. I love how the pigment has subtle glitter in it because I think it will make her lips stand out and sparkle in the studio lights. I wanted to add definition around the lips so I added a dark brown lip liner around the lips and blended into the lips to create an ombre effect. I really like how bold the lips look and how the lip liner makes them look very full and plump. I want the skin to be very dewy, with no powder and a cream highlight on the high points of the face to reflect the 2016 spring/summer trend of dewy skin and I want her skin to look very healthy and fresh looking. I want her eye brows to very very sleek and sharp looking to frame the eyes, especially as the eyes are being kept very neutral. I wanted to add some black kohl eye liner to the water line to give my model a more sexy, seductive look. I then wanted to blend some black eye shadow along the lower lash line to give a smokey look and to diffuse the waterline colour. I then wanted to add some spiky fake eye lashes to give the top lash line more drama.

Face Chart 2 (Chosen Look)

CROSSET, P., 2014. African Women [viewed 24th March 2016]. 
Available from: https://africa.quora.com/African-Women

I was then inspired by the image above with the very glossy looking eye lids. I have never done anything like this before and I thought it looked so beautiful so I wanted to try it! I wanted the skin to be very dewy to make the model's skin look very healthy and fresh and also because it is a popular SS16 trend. I thought the shiny eye lids would compliment the glossy finish of the skin and would emphasise the SS16 trend on metallics. I wanted to use a warmer, more bronzy eye shadow colour to reflect my model's very warm and golden skin tone so I decided to use Mac's Copper Sparkle pigment. I will research what technique to use to get this effect as I love the way it catches the light. I want the eye brows to be very defined to frame her face and because I think it is flattering on people with darker skin tones to have a sharper brow. I will give my model a light contour and I will apply a cream highlighter to the tops of her cheek bones to give her skin a natural glow. I will add a lip gloss to the lips to continue the glossy theme and dab some of the copper pigment I applied on her eyes, on her lips to tie the look together. I may add some brown lip liner to the lips first, depending on my model's natural lip colour; however I didn't want to apply a bright lip colour or anything that looks too unnatural as I wanted the eyes to be the main focus. I finished the look off with a very light coat of mascara as I didn't want the eye lashes to distract from the wet-look eye shadow.

Testing out the Makeup

I had never done a glossy eyed look so I decided to do some research on YouTube to find out a technique that I liked! I found Jordan Liberty on YouTube and found a technique where you mix Vaseline and clear lip gloss to create the shiny product. You first do the eye shadow look how you want it and then simply pat the mixture over the top and the more mixture you apply, the more wet the eye shadow will look. 

LIBERTY, J., 2011. Dark Glossy Eyes: HD Makeup Tutorial [viewed 24th March 2016]. 

Available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cN7jYoCX22w

My Experiments with Glossy Eyes

1. I first tried applying the pigment to the eye lids first by patting it all over the eye lids and then blending it out with a clean blending brush. I then made a mixture of lip gloss and vaseline and dabbed it all over the eye. I found that this completely disturbed the pigment under neath and took off certain sections of the pigment. This made the end result look very patchy and uneven which was not the seamless look I was going for. After this first experiment I thought that the vaseline might be the cause of the pigment moving around so much as it has oil in which rejects makeup; I will therefore just use clear lip gloss in my later experiments. 

2. I next experimented with mixing the lip gloss and pigment together and then applying that mixture to the eye lids. I found that this created a beautiful, glossy paste that smoothly applied to the eye lids. I was planning on blending the pigment out onto the skin by blended it with my fingers; however the pigment did not blend evenly, it instead started to go very patchy. It was very difficult to blend so I decided I needed to apply eye shadow before hand.

3. This time I applied some orange eye shadow all round the eyes as a transition colour in the crease with a big blending brush. I then applied more orange eye shadow into the crease and under the lash line with a smaller blending brush to build some colour. I then applied the mixture of lipgloss and copper pigment to the eye lid, making sure to pat on the colour and not swipe I found out before that this makes it look patchy. After applying this to the lid, I then applied some clear lip gloss over the eye shadow on the lower lash line and on the orange eye shadow on the eye to make the whole eye look glossy. I am really happy with how well the eye shadow blended and how shiny and glossy the finish is. 

Equipment:

-Clean & Clear Duo Action Moisturiser

-Nivea Men Shave Balm

-Beauty Blender

-Mac Studio Fix Foundation in NC45/NC50

-Pro LA Girl Concealer in Fawn

-Mac Cream Colour Base in Hush

-Mac Mineralise Skin Finish in Soft & Gentle

-Laura Mercier Translucent Setting Powder

-Zoeva 105 Luxe Highlight Brush

-Rimmel London Eyebrow Pencil in Black Brown

-Zoeva 233 Cream Shader Eye Brush

-Urban Decay Primer Potion Original

-Laura Mercier Blending Brush

-Mac Eye Shadow in Red Brick

-Mac 217 Brush

-Mac Pigment in Copper Sparkle

-Rimmel Oh My Gloss! Lip Gloss in Crystal Clear

-Zoeva 230 Luxe Pencil Brush

-Mac Eye Shadow in Nylon

-True Brown lip liner by Kylie Jenner

-Mac Lipstick in Taupe

Step by step:

1. I first applied Clean & Clear Duo Action Moisturiser all over the face to hydrate the skin.

2. I next applied a primer, Nivea Men Shave Balm, to fill in any pores to give an even skin texture ready for makeup application.

3. I applied a mixture of Mac Studio Fix Foundation in NC45 and NC50 all over the face and neck with the Beauty Blender to get an even and flawless coverage. I also applied this over the eye lids and ears to make sure everything was one colour. 

4. I applied some Pro LA Girl Concealer in Fawn under her eyes to conceal her dark circles, however I didn't particularly want to highlight the face as I wanted the skin to look very even. I blended this in with my fingers.

5. I applied Mac Cream Colour Base in Hush to the high points of her face to give her skin a dewy finish.

6. I lightly dusted some Laura Mercier Translucent Setting Powder all over her face with the Zoeva 105 Luxe Highlight Brush, concentrating it on the t-zone, to set the makeup. 

7. I applied some Mac Mineralise Skin Finish in Soft & Gentle to the tops of the cheek bones, down the centre of the nose and the cupids bow; however I kept this very natural as I wanted to focus to be on the glossy eyes. 

8. I used the Rimmel London Eyebrow Pencil in Black Brown to draw over her eye brows. My model didn't have many eye brow hairs so I had to make sure to draw them on quite heavily and made them as even as possible. I drew a line along the bottom of the eye brow and a line on top of her eye brow to get the shape I wanted. I then filled the eye brows in to complete the eye brow, making sure to not add too much product. 

9. I used some Pro LA Girl Concealer in Fawn to clean up the underneath part of the eye brow to give it a very crisp look. I used the Zoeva 233 Cream Shader Eye Brush to do this. 

10. I applied some Urban Decay Primer Potion in Original all over the eye lids as preparation for the eye shadow and then set it with Laura Mercier Translucent Setting Powder and the Zoeva 105 Luxe Highlight Brush to make it easier to blend the eye shadow on top. 

11. I applied Mac Eye Shadow in Red Brick into the crease with the Laura Mercier Blending Brush and I made sure that it was all blended perfectly. 

12. I then used the Mac 217 Brush, which is a slightly more dense blending brush, with the same Red Brick eye shadow and put it into the crease to add more dimension. 

13. I applied some of the same Red Brick eye shadow along the lower lash line with a smaller blending brush, Zoeva 230 Luxe Pencil Brush.

14. I applied some Mac Eye Shadow in Nylon, which is a white shimmery eye shadow, in the inner corner and blended it into the orange to brighten the inner corner.

15. I mixed some Mac Copper Sparkle pigment with some Rimmel Oh My Gloss! Lip Gloss in Crystal Clear on the back of my hand and applied it to both eye lids up until the crease colour. 

16. I applied some Rimmel Scandal Eyes Mascara lightly to the top and bottom eye lashes.

17. I dabbed some Rimmel Oh My Gloss! Lip Gloss in Crystal Clear onto the rest of the eye shadow to make it all look glossy, including along the lower lash line. 

18. I lined the lips with True Brown lip liner by Kylie Jenner to give the lips definition. 

19. I applied some Taupe lipstick by Mac all over the lips to fill them in and blend the lip liner. 

20. I finally mixed some Copper Sparkle pigment and clear lipgloss and applied it to the centre of the lips and blended it out with my finger. 

I am so happy with how the makeup turned out! I love how glossy with eye shadow looks with the lip gloss added on top because it really catches the light and gives the eye dimension and a wet-look finish. I like how defined the eye brows are because it gives structure back to the face, as the eyes and lips aren't very defined. I really like how I used the same Copper Sparkle pigment on the eyes and the lips because they tie in together and I like that they are both glossy because they compliment each other. I like how flawless the skin looks; however if I had to change one thing about the look, it would be that the cheeks look slightly flat. I think I could have added an orange toned blush to the cheeks to give them more dimension and shape.

Mirijana Vasoic - Special Guest Talk

We were very lucky to have makeup artist Mirijana asoic come in to give us a talk and demonstration, sharing her tips and tricks and her story of her career so far. She has worked with high profile clients such as Jimmy Choo, Alexander McQueen, Relon and Toni & Guy, and celebrities such as Lady Gaga, Kelly Brook and Camilla Macintosh. She has previously worked closely with Val Garland and is now world-renowned Lucia Pieroni's first assistant, traveling all round the world and working on huge projects including Vogue and Fashoin Week. I found her talk so helpful and inspiring so I thought I would right down the tips that I learned and the adice I will cherish.

Advice on Applying for work experience:
- Learn the top names in the industry for makeup, hair and photography so you know what you're talking about!
-Make sure you have an agent so you are not completely freelance.
-Start your emails with a pleasantry, such as 'morning' or 'afternoon'
-Continue the email with 'Hope you are well' or 'Hope you enjoyed your Easter' etc..
-If you do not hear back then send a follow up email in a month
-If you do another shoot, then send this shoot through to give another excuse to contact them.
-Give your contact details at the end of the email so it is easily accessible.
-Email different agents with your work.
-Keep the emails very formal and professional, they are not your friends!
-Don't waffle in the email, keep it short and sweet!
-You don't need to include all your experience, that is what your CV is for!

Tips on applying makeup:
-The foundation is the base for the makeup so make sure it is of high quality. This is the product she suggested spending that much more on for the quality.
-Bioderma is great for cleansing the skin with a cotton pad. It is so important to not have any residue of makeup or dirt on the face before makeup application.
-Don't use a highly fragranced or oily moisturiser on the face. Nivea moisturiser is one she suggested.

NIVEA, 2016. Rich Moisturising Day Cream [viewed 24th March 2016]. 
Available from: http://www.nivea.co.uk/products/face-care/essentials
/dry-skin/Rich-Moisturising-Day-Cream

-She suggested learning the lymphatic draining facial massage to use on the clients when moisturising their face to stimulate the client's skin, but also to relax the client. I looked up some videos on this and found Lisa Eldridge's tutorial on facial massage particularly helpful and I will some of her techniques on my clients.

ELDRDGE, L., 2014. My Facial Massage Rountine [viewed 24th March 2016]. 

Available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CdkgqXBXprY

-She suggested getting the Mac Face & Body foundation as it is a light to medium coverage with a very natural satin finish. She says that she only has five shades that she likes to mix together to get her perfect shade. She has C1, C6, N1, N9 and white, so she has the lightest and darkest shade in the pink tone and yellow tone foundation and then a white to lighten any of the foundation colours.
-You can purchase Mac Match Master foundation which claims to match the skin colour if you use it within a couple shades of the skin to get a very personalised shade.
-Use a small stippling brush that isn't too dense and use a light touch on the skin to give the most natural and even coverage. It also feels very soft and relaxing on the model's skin.
-Don't use a yellow toned concealer under the eyes because it will accentuate the dark circles, instead use a slightly pink toned concealer to cancel out the blue tones under the eyes. Use a soft, flexible brush to lightly sweep this under the eyes to give a natural finish.
-The Zoeva 317 brush is perfect for the eye brows because it is an angled brush and it is very thin to create hair like strokes and precision.

ZOEVA, 2016. 317 Wing Liner [viewed 24th March 2016]. 
Available from: https://www.zoeva-shop.de/317-wing-liner/a-8000141/

-Use Mac Mixing Medium in Shine or Mac Cream Colour Base in Pearl as cream highlighters to give a beautiful sheen. 

-Clean makeup brushed with Fairy Liquid 

-Use alcohol to clean brushes when on set

-Try to only clean the part of the brush that is dirty so don't clean right in the root of the brush if only the tip has been used as it will disturb the glue holding the brush together over time. 

-Use the Zoeva 233 brush as a lip brush because it covers more surface area and is the perfect shape to draw on the cupids bow. 

ZOEVA, 2016. 233 Cream Shader [viewed 24th March 2016]. 
Available from: https://www.zoeva-shop.de/233-cream-shader/a-8000133/

-When doing lips, make sure you ask your model to open her mouth and draw two lines connecting the top and bottom lip so that if your model opens her mouth you won't see a gap. Then draw a line in the centre of the bottom lip and a dot in the centre of the top lip to get your four points. 

-Try to correct the shape of the model's lips as much as possible so they look completely even and full.
-The model should tilt her head to the left when doing the right side of her upper lip because it makes the angle so much easier to work with.
-Mirijana suggested only using Mac Lip Mixes for lipsticks because they are so easy to apply, you can mix them to make any colour and you can influence the finish easily by mixing Mac Mixing Medium in either Shine or Matte.

Resources:
VASOVIS, M., 2015. Bibliography [viewed 24th March 2016]. Available from: http://www.mirijanavasovic.com/biography/

Learning New Techniques in PhotoShop

I wanted to edit my chosen Wash & Dry image; however I felt I needed to learn some new techniques in PhotoShop to help me achieve the very fake and plastic look that Mac is famous for. I understand that editing someone's body on PhotoShop is very controversial; however I want to create an advert that I think Mac cosmetics would actually use and to do this I need my model looking in great shape to fit in with their models.

Original Image.

1. Cropping - I first cropped the image so that the background was all orange and there were no edges showing, as I always do to get the composition I want.

2. Clone Tool - I then used the Clone Tool to eliminate any imperfections she may have, for example, bruises and spots. I also used the Clone Tool to remove any stains on the floor or any shadows or creasing in the background. 

3. High Frequency Retouching - I then used High Frequency Retouching to separate the layers into the texture and the colour of the image so I could manipulate these individually. I corrected any uneven skin colour in the colour layer and I smoothed out any pimples or hairs in the texture layer so perfect her skin and make it look almost fake looking. 

Cropped and Perfected Skin.

How to Transform the Body in PhotoShop by Phlearn

I found this YouTube tutorial by Phlearn called How to Transform the Body in PhotoShop and it made me so excited to try out all the new techniques on my own image! 

PHLEARN, 2014. How to Transform the Body in PhotoShop [viewed 23rd March 2016]. 

Available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CsERz-mCtiU

When I first thought about changing my model's figure to make her look slimmer, I immediately thought about tucking in her stomach; however there are many other areas that need taking care of, including lengthening the neck and legs. 

The first technique I learned was Puppet Warp. You do this by duplicating the image layer and clicking Edit>Puppet Warp. This then creates a grid over your image where you can select different anchor points which stay in the same place, meaning you can move different sections of the body away from others, simply by dragging them. You have to select each anchor point around the parts of the body you want to move so that they all move as one. This can look very obvious so you have to be subtle with this tool. 

4. Puppet Warp - I used this tool to lengthen the neck. To do this I selected anchor points all round the head to make sure the head stayed exactly the same shape and I put anchor points on each shoulder so that only the areas between these anchor points would change. I then dragged the head upwards very slightly to make her neck look a little longer. I also lengthened her calf closest to the front with this same technique; however I put the anchor points all round her foot and one on either side of the knee cap. 

I next learned how to use Liquify. When you Liquify an image you can move and distort any area of the image, meaning you can pull out any areas of the body you want to look larger and push in any areas you want to appear smaller or flatter. I took a screen shot of the area in PhotoShop where you can do this and as you can see, you can choose different brush sizes, densities and pressure, depending on the effect you want. You do this by creating a duplicate layer and then selecting Filter>Liquify. 

5. Liquify - I used Liquify to distort any areas of the body that I either wanted to look bigger or look smaller/flatter. I used this to make her arms look slimmer, her stomach look flatter, her back look more arched, her legs look slimmer and her behind look bigger and more round. I really enjoyed using this tool as I found it made such a difference! However I was aware that I didn't want to make her look too unrealistic so I only changed each area subtly. 

Slimmed Model.

6. Adding Text 

SWATCH&REVIEW, 2015. MAC Wash & Dry Summer 2015 Collection information [viewed 23rd March 2016]. 
Available from: http://swatchandreview.com/mac-wash-and-dry-summer-2015-collection-information/

Above is Mac's Wash & Dry Advert and I wanted to look at it again to remind myself of how they lay out their text. The text in most of their adverts seems to be in the middle of the image so I wanted to do the same in my advert to continue the same look. I like that this draws all the focus to the text and then your eye turns to the image so that the view knows exactly what brand they're looking at. I made the text white just like in the Mac advert too to make it consistent and I felt white text stood out well against the darker, more colourful background. I like the white text because it looks very clean, light and fresh which is perfect for this summer advert. 

7. Intensifying the highlights

I wanted the skin to look even more glowying and dewy so I wanted to intensify the highlights on her body. I found the YouTube video below by 'thislooksgreat1' which gave me inspiration on how to make the skin look more dewy. The link is below:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dV2s1zJJXLc

THISLOOKSGREAT1, 2013. Photoshop Retouching Tutorial: Glowing Skin Creative Manipulation Effect [viewed 23rd March 2016]. Available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dV2s1zJJXLc

Steps:

1. I first flattened my image so all the existing layers were now combined into one image. 

2. I then made a duplicate layer of the image and selected Filter>Blur>Gaussian Blur and set that to about 2 or 3. 

3. I then changed the blending mode of those layers to soft light and it made all the colours more vibrant. 

4. I made a duplicate of the top layer and it intensified the colours even more. 

5. I changed the blending mode to overlay to make everything stand out even more. 

(My own technique)

6. I made a copy of the image as a jpeg after step 3 and I made a copy of the image after step 5. I saved these both as separate jpegs so the blending modes wouldn't make a difference. 

7. I then uploaded these jpegs in PhotoShop with the more intensified image on the bottom layer. 

8. I used the Eraser Tool and put it on 22% and I erased any areas where I wanted the highlight to stand out more vibrantly. I did this on the arms, legs, face etc. The image below shows where I used the Eraser Tool because I hid the background layer. 

I continued to do this until I was happy with it until I was happy that the model's skin looked glowy, but not fake and the final image is shown below. 

Choosing My Models for the All Ages, All Sexes, All Races Editorial

Below are the model I have chosen for my collage. I wanted to incorporate 2016 spring/summer trends into each makeup look and I wanted all makeup looks to wear very similar coloured makeup but just used in different ways. Metallics were a big SS16 trend in Fashion Week and I thought I could incorporate this trend into makeup looks in a variety of ways so I chose this. I also wanted to use black in the makeup looks so add a seductive feel to the images, for example graphic liner or black kohl in the water line which were both SS16 trends showcased in Fashion Week. 

Male Model - Mat Grindel

I chose to use a manly looking man about 25 years old, with stubble to show a contrast with the smooth skin of the females.

Dark Skin Model - Ruva Aisha Ali

I have then chosen a dark skin girl aged 18 to bring in a darker complexion to contrast with the lighter skin tones of the other models.

Older Model - Linda Mercer

My next model is about 50 so her aged skin will contrast with the more plump skin of the younger models.

Blonde Model - Grace Geoffrey

Finally a chose a model with blonde hair and very pale skin to contrast with the dark hair of the other models.

Hair Choices

I will be focusing on the makeup for each model so will not be designing specific hair looks; however I want each model to style their hair as they would normally to keep it looking natural. I want the male model to have it gelled up slightly and off his face as this is a popular style for men. I would like the dark skin model to have her hair looking very sleek and smooth because I want it to contrast with the blonde hair, that I want to be curled and voluminous. I want the blonde model's hair to be big and curly because the blonde hair will stand out the most against the black background so I want it to make a statement. I also want it to be curly because I think that's the stereotype for blondes to be very girly and barbie-like. I want the mature model to wear her hair as she usually does, with it mostly slightly pushed backwards with a light fringe. 

All Ages, All Sexes, All Races Editorial Research and Ideas

I wanted this editorial shoot to be separate from my editorial spread images because I wanted to design an editorial that I thought would represent Mac's mission statement of All Ages, All Sexes, All Races. I want my other editorial shoots to be more avant-garde and less wearable to represent the very expressive and creative side to Mac; however I want this editorial to portray a message. I wanted to include a lot of the colour black, for example a black background, because Mac's logo is a crisp and professional black and white, so I wanted to continue the block colour theme. 

Mac's Mineralize Collection

I was inspired by Mac's Mineralize adverts, show casing different looks using different products within the range. I was aware that I wasn't creating an advert; however I was inspired by the sleek feel of the adverts. I was attracted to them because of the very harsh, black shadows surrounding the model which made sure all focus was on the makeup. All the adverts in this collection are head shots of the same model, focusing on different parts of the face to showcase different products. The top advert is advertising the Skinfinishes in the range so the skin is the main feature, with the eyes and lips being kept fairly neutral. The second image is showcasing the eye shadows in the range so the eyes look very dramatic and the lips have been kept nude. The third image is showcasing the lip products in the range so the eyes have been kept natural and the lips are very bold and the focus of the image. I love how simple these images are and how there are no distractions from the makeup looks. The model used in this collection is Irina Kulikova. She has very defined cheek bones, full eye brows and big eyes, but she isn't the typical doll-like model Mac used in the collection adverts I researched; instead the model looks more high fashion, with a stronger facial structure and thinner lips. The model still looks very slim from her collar bones and defined facial features; however it is not as important to use a slim model in this advert as they are only head shots.

Mineralize Skinfinish
FASHION GONE ROGUE, 2014. Irina Kulikova Gets Glossy In MAC Cosmetics' Mineralize Ads [viewed 21st March 2016]. 
Available from: http://www.fashiongonerogue.com/irina-kulikova-gets-glossy-mac-cosmetics-mineralize-ads/

My favourite advert for the Mineralize collection would be the one below, showcasing the beautiful purple shades available. I love how dramatic the eye shadow is, with the blended out wing and deep, rich colours, because it shows a more create way to use the eye shadows and ensures that all the attention is on the eyes. I like that they used a white/nude in the waterline because is gives the model a more doll-like effect, which is a very popular look by Mac. The skin has been kept very dewy and natural looking and the lips are a glossy peachy nude. I like that the shadows created around her head accentuate the cheekbones as there is a shadow falling underneath the cheekbone but not on top. I also like that she has her shoulder in front of her face as it makes her look slightly mysterious, almost like she is hiding herself from the camera. I found that this also elongates the face which is flattering and acts as a leading line towards her face. Her skin hasn't been overly edited which I like, as I found the collection adverts I previously research had almost plastic look skin. You can still see some faint freckles around the nose and the pores in her skin which makes her look a lot more natural, but still flawless. I was inspired by the dramatic use of colour in this image against the neutral face and black background as it really makes the eye stand out. I will definitely experiment with using a black background in my editorial images and simple, but dramatic makeup looks.

Mineralize Eye Shadow

FASHION GONE ROGUE, 2014. Irina Kulikova Gets Glossy In MAC Cosmetics' Mineralize Ads [viewed 21st March 2016]. 

Available from: http://www.fashiongonerogue.com/irina-kulikova-gets-glossy-mac-cosmetics-mineralize-ads/

Mineralize Glass, Mineralize Rich Lipstick

FASHION GONE ROGUE, 2014. Irina Kulikova Gets Glossy In MAC Cosmetics' Mineralize Ads [viewed 21st March 2016]. 

Available from: http://www.fashiongonerogue.com/irina-kulikova-gets-glossy-mac-cosmetics-mineralize-ads/

Mac's Colour Culture Campaign
This campaign was created to celebrate Mac's mission statement of All Ages, All Races, All Sexes. There doesn't seem to be much information about the campaign online; however I was really drawn in to the image. I love how it isn't perfectly clear which part of the face belongs to which person, or even how many people have been used because it entices the viewer to look deeper into the image. I really like the variety of faces used in the collage, asian, white and black, because it emphasises the mission statement of All Races. I think it would have been more appropriate for them to have used different ages and sexes as well as just different races to showcase their mission statement even more; however I can see that they may have kept the diversity minimal to create beautiful, flawless image, where all the images connect up perfectly. I am intrigued to experiment with the different combinations of faces I could combine in this collage so that it shows a wider range of faces that Mac cater towards. I like that the background is black because it gives a very clean and sophisticated look and it means all the focus is on the makeup with no distractions. All the makeup looks in this advert are simple, but different which I like because it puts the focus on the features instead of dramatic makeup; however I think it would work if the same eye shadow colours or same shade of lipstick was used as then you could see how different people could wear it with different ethnicities, ages etc.

CHANG, C., 2012. M.A.C MAC Cosmetic brand Rebrand [viewed 21st March 2016]. 
Available from: https://www.behance.net/gallery/6423273/MAC-MAC-Cosmetic-brand-Rebrand

Collage Inspiration

After deciding I wanted to create a collage of faces of different ethnicities, ages and sexes, I wanted to look into different collages that I could do to make my Colour Culture image unique. I wanted to include at least three different faces so that I could incorporate the different races, ages and sexes; however I was open to using more than this to create the effect I wanted. I came across this collage below of many different faces.

I like the collage below because the images have been positioned together to make a realistic looking face shape, with the eyes, nose and mouth all in the correct positions. The image above from the Mac Colour Culture campaign has not been put together to create a realistic looking face; however the image below has been closely matched up, with the jawline connecting and the facial features being in the same place, so it looks like the shape of a person's face, but just with different colourings. I like that the two images on each side are from the same person because it frames the collaged face and it gives the face a realistic silhouette. I like that each section has been put into straight, even;y distributed lines because it looks very crisp and organised; however I want my collage to look more abstract and unorganised looking, so the viewer has to work out who's face belongs to who, like a puzzle. 

PIXHDER. Faces Collage Diversity [viewed 21st March 2016]. 
Available from: http://pixhder.com/faces+collage+diversity

I like how the edges of the face are all uneven in the collage below as it gives it an edgy look. I like that some of the models' hair has been included, along with a model's neck and hand, because it gives a clear image of the diversity of the people used in the image and it gives each person more character. I like that this image above only included the girls' faces because the makeup was the main focus, with no distractions; however I like how the image below looks quite unorganised and random, with more of each model showing because it gives the image more character. I also like how the saturation and exposure in each image are different because it adds to the edgy look and gives the image a slight vintage feel, as if they haven't  been edited or taken with a particularly high tech camera. Even if I decide to make the composition of the editorial slightly unorganised looking, I will still aim to execute the makeup perfectly as I am still representing Mac as a brand even though I'm not advertising a particular product; I think it would be a fun contrast with the messy, unorganised composition. I am not completely sure how many models were used in this image; however it is definitely over three! I therefore want to use about four models in my collage so that there are many looks to combine together and contrast with. This is my favourite collage I've looked into and so it is the one I will take more inspiration from with regards to layout. 

EVERFEMME, 2013. [viewed 21st March 2016]. 
Available from: http://everfemme.tumblr.com/post/45594526615

I want all the models in my collage to look very different, with different races, sexes and ages to reflect Mac's mission statement. I want to all my models to be wearing different makeup looks to suit them; however I want all the makeup to be within the same colour scheme so it doesn't look too messy. I will be including many different faces within my collage so I want to keep the colour scheme small to keep it looking clean and professional to contrast with the more chaotic composition. I now need to decide on my models and what makeup look each of them will be wearing!

Resources:

FASHION GONE ROGUE, 2014. Irina Kulikova Gets Glossy In MAC Cosmetics' Mineralize Ads [viewed 21st March 2016]. 

Available from: http://www.fashiongonerogue.com/irina-kulikova-gets-glossy-mac-cosmetics-mineralize-ads/